Wanderlust: A Tale of Two Portland Hotels

In just about every way, the Ace Hotel and the Monaco Hotel -- only a handful of blocks apart in Portland, Oregon's compact, easily walkable downtown -- couldn't be more different. One is spare, almost utilitarian; the other is opulent. One is modern; the other hearkens back to a different, more glamorous age. One is industrial chic; the other over-the-top elegant. One caters to the young, hip, and creative; the other, to the sophisticated and well-heeled.

Both hotels are breathtaking, albeit each in its own way. Stay at the Ace when you're feeling edgy, and at the Monaco when you want to nestle in the lap of luxury. (Can't afford to overnight at either? As long as you behave yourself, nobody will stop you from nursing your cup of Stumptown Coffee in the casually chill Ace lobby, or from sitting by the fire for a spell at the Monaco.)

Here, a photographic tour of the Ace Hotel (all photos by moi):

Left: The vintage photo booth in the Ace Lobby still works; right: the beautiful salvaged filing cabinet in the "business lounge."

The Army-style blankets on the beds are custom-made by Oregon's own Pendelton; you can nab one of your own for $175 at the front desk (or find something similar on eBay for about a fifth the price).

Mural by Brent Wick in room 415; the rough linen upholstery on the ornate, antique settee creates an intriguing juxtaposition.

Military surplus is used to kit out the Ace's guest rooms; many have turntables and a selection of vintage vinyl.

Mural by Ryan Jacob Smith in Room 404.

Mural by Evan B. Harris, in the 4th floor stairwell.

The Ace's owners had the room number signs made up by Portland's longtime street sign supplier; the floor tiles in the lobby are original to the building.

Across the street from the Ace is the Living Room Theater, one of Portland's many "brew and view" (or "ciné and dine") movie houses; around the corner is this, um, interesting piece of public art, as well as Portland's legendary Powell's Books.

And here, a look at the Monaco's luxe lobby (again, all photos taken by yours truly):

These chairs are so Kelly Wearstler, aren't they?

The raspberry color on the walls is amazing in person.

Somehow, the color explosion totally works.

I love everything about this vignette -- from the decorative white panel to the glossy black lampshade to the pink-and-gray chinoiserie upholstery on the chaise. I'd kill for a reading nook like this ...

I honestly can't decide which hotel I like better -- I think it depends on which day you ask me. I love the Ace's chic simplicity and arty uniqueness, while the Monaco appeals to the old-school, glamour-loving girlie in me. (Bonus random celebrity sighting at the Monaco: Actor Tim Robbins, silver-maned and quite tall, wheeling a bike into the lobby.)

Which hotel's decor better suits your style?

P.S. More on Portland hotels here.

Wanderlust: Portland's Hip Hotels

I'm sort of obsessed with Portland, Oregon. (Well, as obsessed as one can be with a place that one has never actually set foot in -- which, in my case, is fairly obsessed.)

In fact, I'm so fixated on Portland that I threatened to move the whole family there, sight unseen, a couple of years ago. Saner heads (that would be the kids') ultimately prevailed, but I'm still holding out the option.

I don't know what it is about the place, but -- at least from afar -- it seems to possess some sort of magical combo of big-city sophistication, small-town homeyness, great food, natural beauty, arty funk, homegrown music, old-time charm, and affordable (at least by Bay Area standards) housing. On the more sweltering days here in the balmy East Bay, even Portland's purportedly endless drizzle seems romantic. And it doesn't hurt that a recent article about the city was entitled "Weird, and Proud of It." That's my kind of town.

Though we're not packing up the U-Haul just yet, I'm absolutely dying to check out Portland in person. It's definitely the locale of our next big family vacation -- most likely over the Thanksgiving or winter break. I have a file folder growing ever-thicker with articles about the rejuvenated industrial Pearl District, Hawthorne, and other cozy-yet-cosmopolitan neighborhoods to explore; tearsheets with ads for all the great stores I want to hit; and reviews of Portland's foodie favorites and increasingly hip hotel choices (like the white-hot Ace, above).

When we travel, we usually sublet somebody's apartment for a week or so (though I'm keen to try house-swapping, too) rather than stay in hotels. Not only is it cheaper, but we get a lot more space, have the option of eating in rather than springing for restaurant meals three times a day, and can pretend that we're locals while we're in town. But these digs look so tempting that we may just suck it up and book a room.

Here's a peek at my shortlist of Portland lodgings:

The Ace Hotel
Housed in a 1912 building near the Pearl (and a block from Portland's legendary Powells Books), the Ace features funky vintage furnishings and Army surplus-chic decor, art-centric spaces (each room has an original mural), a fleet of rental bikes, record players in some rooms, a photo booth in the lobby, and an on-site coffeehouse. It's the sort of place where you might find a dot-com millionaire, a starving art student, or a touring band bunking for the night. Rates range from $95 to $250. Check out the Ace Hotel here.

Hotel deLuxe
Though it doesn't exactly jibe with Portland's damp-and-funky aesthetic, this lavish downtown Deco gem channels an old Hollywood glamour that's hard to resist. Rooms come with iPod docks, flatscreen TVs, and a "pillow menu." There's also room service and daycare for your dog, a swanky screening room that unspools classic films and new releases, a Noirish cocktail lounge, and an elegant eatery. Sounds de-Lovely. Rates range from $159 to $329. Check out the Hotel deLuxe here.

Hotel Lucia
Understated luxury and hushed tranquility ooze from this art- and photography-themed downtown hotel, which features the work of Pulitzer Prize winner (and PDX native) David Hume Kennerly. Part modern art gallery and part upscale hideaway, the Lucia boasts stellar service (press the "get it now" button in your guest room and a staff member will materialize almost instantly to grant your wish) and a contemporary Asian-fusion vibe. Rates range from $149 to $259. Check out Hotel Lucia here.

Hotel Monaco
Decorated in high Anglo-Chinois style by Cheryl Rowley, this glammed-up Pioneer Square dowager boasts an enviable private art collection to complement the dramatic decor. There's a "curator on call" to squire guests to the Portland Art Museum and local galleries. Pets are welcome, too -- and the hotel's canine "pet concierge," Art, can even arrange (presumably with a little help from his human handlers) visits from a pet masseur or pet psychic. Rates range from $160 to $245. Check out the Hotel Monaco here.

Jupiter Hotel
A hipster's haven with a techno beat, this mod motel is located in Portland's uber-trendy "LoBu" neighborhood. Highlights include chalkboard doors, retro-modern furnishings, an adjoining club called Doug Fir, and a rave-party vibe that keeps pumpin' until 4 a.m. When supermodels, European club kids, and rock stars have stopovers in Portland, I suspect that this is where you'll find them. Rates range from $99 to $119. Check out the Jupiter Hotel here.

McMenamins Kennedy School
A converted 1915 schoolhouse in Northeast Portland, the Kennedy puts up guests in classrooms complete with original chalkboards, feeds them in the wood-paneled cafeteria, and lubricates them in the Honors Bar, Detention Bar, or two other watering holes. An attached brewery, a soaking pool on the site of the former teachers' lounge, and a pizza parlour-cum-movie theater in the school's auditorium make this a fun and laid-back choice. In fact, I think it's my favorite of the bunch, since it most closely captures the friendly, funky, down-to-earth Portland I have in my mind's eye. Rates range from $99 to $125. Check out McMenamins Kennedy School here.

I can practically smell the rain and the microbrew now ...

(Any Portlanders out there with other tips for lodging -- or suggestions for shopping, eating, seeing? If so, please share 'em!)

P.S. I finally went! Click here, here, and here for more info on Portland lodging and shopping.